Discovering a hidden gem on Mull
Glengorm – much brighter than its name sounds
Green and blue are the colours of Mull – vibrant shades when the sun shines or grey and unsaturated when a curtain of rain washes over the landscape. The Gaelic word ‘gorm’ doesn’t have a direct translation into English – it is the colour you might see in the distance, between green and blue, sometimes nearer grey.
If you have read my posts over the past two weeks, you will know that I have been away with my partner on Mull, researching walks for a new guidebook. We are just back and it is Saturday already, so I don’t have time to write many words. So here is another ‘postcards’ newsletter, featuring another place that was new to me.
Situated in the far north of Mull, Glengorm is five miles from Tobermory, at the end of a single track road that I had only driven a short distance along before. Visiting proved worthwhile. Not only did I have a lovely walk, but afterwards we also enjoyed a tasty second breakfast in the welcoming Coffee Shop1 in the old stables.
The wall by the highly decorated toilets – the most colourful I have ever seen – had a large board showing Glengorm Estate with walking routes and points of interest to explore. It also described what conservation the owners were doing, through farming methods, protecting the heritage and archaeology, recycling, promoting biodiversity and maintaining a productive walled garden.
What’s in a name?
I learned some history of the estate and the legendary source of its name from Wikipedia:
The Mishnish estate was purchased in 1856 by James Forsyth of Quinish. He cleared the existing townships to make way for the new house, which was completed in 1860.
The name "Glengorm" is said to originate during the construction of the castle when apparently, Forsyth asked an elderly woman what he should name the manor. The story claims she suggested "Gleann Gorm", meaning blue glen. Forsyth used this name, unaware of the meaning, with the blue in the name referencing the unusual blue smoke visible from the castle, produced when the houses with seaweed and peat inside were burned when the surrounding settlements were cleared.
Glengorm Castle is now in different ownership and offers a variety of short stay, self catering apartments as well as the Coffee Shop, which sells the estate’s lamb, beef and venison.
A walk with history
My short walk at Glengorm took me out on a track below the castle with a superb view from this elevated position to the Ardnamurchan peninsula. I visited an unusual group of three standing stones then took a grassy track to the coast below Dun Ara, a natural outcrop that was the site of a medieval castle. I returned by a different route, chased by a rain shower, and had close encounters with the farm’s docile Highland cattle. They weren’t bothered by me, but I walked around them rather than follow the path straight through the middle of the group of cows and young calves.
I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse of a delightful corner of Mull. Have you been there yourself – or are you tempted?
The Coffee Shop is open Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm.
Thanks for sharing. Makes me ache to return to Mull.
Centre for so many family holidays. We had a wonderful B&b stay in the castle for a wedding anniversary. Stayed a number of times at Lephin Cottage, and a flat in the castle. Mull really is spectacular. Did you make it to Loch Buie, and the fairy falls?